Replace with Adsense Link
Showing posts with label Preparing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Preparing. Show all posts

Preparing and Planning Your Intensive Garden Plot

Measure your space and put a stake in each corner. Run your nylon string from stake to stake. Now you have the area that will need to be prepared inside of the strings.

When you are using a shovel to turn the soil, start on one side and push the shovel in the ground about 1'. Lift the soil and turn it over in the same spot and break it up with the shovel. Continue this until all of the soil is turned over inside the staked area. When the area has grass and you are starting your project in the summer or fall, this process will need to be repeated after a few weeks, or again in the spring to finish breaking down the sod.

When you are starting your project in the spring, turn the sod over, chop or slice the soil off of the back with your shovel, and move the remaining sod to a pile or spread it out somewhere upside down so it can dry out. You should do this even if you intend to use a tiller. When you are starting your project in the summer or fall and will be using a tiller you can till the sod under. First till one direction north to south. Then till the other direction east to west.

Continue tilling again each week for as long as you can work the soil, then till again in early spring. Overlap your tilled rows. Till two rows side by side, then till back down the center of the two rows to be sure that the soil is tilled well. Continue tilling weekly until your beds are planted to prevent weed seeds from germinating. If the weeds get a jump-start on your crops it will cause you problems. This will save you labor spent weeding later in the season.

When you are working with a small space and growing the crops intensively. Some vegetables will utilize the space better than others. Potatoes and corn for instance. In row cropping they are spaced 3' apart. In a 4' bed you can put three rows of potatoes or corn, which will give you three rows in 6' of space counting the walkway. In conventional rows it would take 9' of space for three rows.

You will want to plant them as soon as possible after the frost-free date. There may not be enough time before they are planted to use the space for an early crop unless you plant a fast crop like spinach, turnips or radishes. Vegetables usually grow slower in the cool months of spring and will take a little longer to mature. When your seed packet tells you 45 days to maturity it may actually take 60 days.

In this case you would be planting the potatoes or corn a few weeks after the frost-free date providing that you planted the early crops soon enough. Depending on when your frost-free date is you might not have enough time left for the potatoes or corn to mature. In my location I can do that. I do not because I can plant enough of the fast-growing crops in bed combinations that will have peppers, tomatoes and squash planted later. Depending on how much space you have, you may want to leave out some plant types, so that your beds can be more productive.

Potato plants grow fast and take over the entire bed quickly, this makes it difficult to plant any seeds in the same bed that could grow to maturity before the potato vines will choke them out, except spinach, radishes or turnips. Then you could harvest eight more rows from that bed.

Corn can be combined with beans. This combination will get you an additional six rows of green beans in that 4' bed. Bush beans work the best. You will have to harvest them from under the corn and some rows in the center will be difficult to harvest. This combination works well for dried beans by harvesting the beans after the corn stocks die. You can get more green beans for food storage that way if you can't devote enough space elsewhere.

Pole beans work with corn also but they tie everything together and make it difficult to get to the center of the bed. Pole beans and tall peas are best planted on a fence line in a 2' bed. Some types of winter squashes or pumpkins planted in the center row of a corn bed will work well. Pumpkins do well for me but some winter squashes need a longer growing season and will only work well with corn in a hotter climate.

In desert areas cantaloupe and watermelon can be mixed with corn. As the vines start to encroach on the walkways they can be trained back into the beds. The corn stocks will die and you will have beans or pumpkins etc. growing in that space for the rest of the season.

The best use of the bed space will be combination planting of early, mid, and long-season plants. The plants will need to be categorized into groups, according to how far they need to be spaced apart, how long they will take to mature, and how tall they will grow.


View the original article here

Preparing Compost Tea for the Garden Is Easy

Compost tea sounds like some bizarre concoction, likely to be created by some mad scientist or crazed eccentric gardener. Perhaps you've never ever heard of this compost tea information before, don't worry you are not alone by any stretch of the imagination. The big secret is about to be let out! The truth is that many good gardeners have long ago learned about this tea making and have come to enjoy its strengths and benefits. Brewing this garden compost tea is going to become a lot more common in the not too distant future thanks in part to its impeccable green credentials. Keep reading to find out a little more and discover just how and why you really need to be producing a little tea for your garden to enjoy.

Brewing compost tea is in essence a really simple procedure, but it can often become much more complicated. Some people will go to pretty extreme lengths in order to produce their tea mixtures; however the principles are the same no matter what technique you opt to use. You need an excellent home made rich "base" compost to immerse in water for a period of time. This liquid is strained to remove the bits and pieces and to enable it to be applied by sprayer or watering can. The resulting liquid is of course your tea. The tea liquid will contain a lot of the nutrients from the compost and therefore makes a very handy environmentally friendly fertilizer. The whole process of making this tea may be a lot more complex however in plain and simple terms this is garden compost tea making.

The novice garden enthusiast may perhaps speculate why should you go to all of this hassle and not just make use of any brand of regular garden plant food from the shop or garden center. Just like so many things in life, nature can frequently offer the best solutions and it can be hard to explain why. Compost tea is a totally natural and safe product that is also very beneficial to flowers, plants, grass and even fruit and vegetables. It can be used all around the garden and can really add to the quality of the plants. This tea also contains microbes and bacteria which are believed to assist in keeping plant life healthful. It truly is an excellent natural option and can be used to totally replace your use of chemicals and fertilizers in the garden.

By simply paying attention to several important points, you can get started right away and soon be producing your own compost tea. Nothing is more critical than the rich "base" compost you begin with soaking in order to brew your tea. This base compost will be the source of all the goodness in the final tea mixture so it needs to be top quality good stuff. The compost from composting worms is an excellent base for producing teas but many different kinds of compost will be good, so long as they are unpolluted and well matured.

At the beginning it can be a good idea to make use of one of many basic kits offered by your garden supply shop. This is fantastic if it is your first attempt at making compost tea - it keeps everything really easy and straightforward.

Get yourself in on this great technique and see what the real gardeners have known for a while - tea is great for the plants.... Everyone loves their tea!


View the original article here